Maintenance Issues and Tips
Here I'll post various maintenance issues that builders may want to
regularly inspect or problems they may want to address. Over time
this should be a very valuable list.
Here's my personal Maintenance Spec
Top 10 "Must-Fix" items for
Nosewheel Axle Problem
Sparkplug Experiences on the RV-10
Tire Experiences on the RV-10
Oil Leak Detection
RV-10 Axle Extension upgrade
Fuel Pump and Filter Information
Slick Mag SB (replace
carbon brush, cam, and do timing)
Heavy Doors / Sagging Lift
Propeller Maintenance and Lube
Filtered Air Box Problems
Wheel Fairing Mount - RV-10 Long-Term
Maintenance Problem (with solution)
Fix your Nosewheel/Tube and Mainwheel/Tube
Rapco Brake Linings
and Discs Now Available
"Must-Fix" items for RV-10 Builders
Check out my list of items that EVERY RV-10 builder should fix or be
CLICK HERE for the link
Nosewheel Axle Problems
On the kits shipped before mid 2006, the axle spacers and design is
very flawed. Van's recently changed parts, and now the axle is a
little shorter (was 5.25") and the spacers are thick aluminum. If
you haven't switched to these, MAKE SURE you don't fly before you get
the parts....you'll be sorry. Here's my write-up on that. ** Note: While it's worth reading through
the issues on THIS
page, once you're done, you will want to refer to the 1/20/2009 Matco Axle
link for a better current fix!
**NEW** 1/20/2009 -
Matco Nosewheel Axle Upgrade Kit
Some tips from Matco on installation
Per Phil's talk with Matco:
"I just got off the phone with Matco and thought I'd pass along some
information that is not included in their documentation."
1) The wheel halves should be
torqued to 99 inches. This is more than a standard AN-4 bolt
2) Hand tight is probably too tight. You should be able to
get the seals to hold position (when rotating the wheel in the correct
direction) before reaching the maximum you can tighten by hand tight.
3) Be sure to lubricate the seals and mating surfaces with
grease, this will help them hold position.
4) Once you put weight on the nose wheel, the friction of the
bearing will help hold the seals in place too.
5) Make sure there is no grease between the seal and the
nut. This friction will help hold the seal in place.
If you're looking for a great oil quick-drain, I'm using one that is
very cheap and works very well. I can change the oil hot with the
lower cowl still on. The quickdrain goes on the right side of the
sump. The valve and hose are made by curtis. I got mine from
Aircraft Spruce. Here are the numbers for the valve, and a hose
that attaches to it.
05-01872 CURTIS DRAIN VALVES CCA-1700 $11.650
05-00138 CCB-39600-1 BLK QUK DRAIN HOSE $10.80
I recently received my oil analysis kits, which cost me only $85.00
from Analysts Inc. for 10 postage prepaid sampling kits. The average
I've seen is over $12/sample, with costs running usually $12-24/sample,
so $85 postage prepaid for 10 is great. $70 if you want to pay
some info for you if you're interested.
or contact Katie Rittenhouse at 847-305-9955
These 2 articles sent by John Cox should help you prepare for
installing and caring for your windshield and windows.
Aircraft Windshield Care and
General Drilling and
Trimming of Plexi Windshields
And a quick one-liner from Mark Ritter about protecting your windshield
during work: "As posted earlier I coated all the plexiglas with Spray
Lat (Aircraft Spruce) before trimming and installation. Worked
Experiences on my RV-10
Upon my first sparkplug change, I decided to learn a bit and swap
things around. I'm using Denso W24EMR-C plugs on top, and
Autolite UREM38S Iridium plugs on bottom.
My Tire and
Brake Experiences on the RV-10
While doing my fall tire pressure check, I found some uneven tire wear,
and also some self-caused brake wear.
Oil Leak Detection on
Since day 1, I had a small oil seepage from my engine on the right rear
side. I tried to find it unsuccessfully, until I finally got serious
about it and got myself a UV leak detection setup, consisting of UV Dye
and a UV penlight. Both are made by Supercool,
and I got them at the local CarQuest store. Total cost was $6/oz
for the dye (2 oz required), and $24 for the UV penlight. To see
more about my leak detecting, read my maintenance post HERE.
RV-10 Axle Extension
Here's my write-up
of this issue and some possible fixes. The RV-10 has had a small
handful of cases of the extension stem that holds the outer side of the
wheel fairing breaking and damaging the fairing. It's a worthy
item to upgrade and fix, and for those who are currently building it's
a definite "should highly consider" modification.
Airflow Performance Fuel Pump and Filter
Rob Wright was nice enough to dig up this great info on the Airflow
Performance fuel boost pump and filter system used on most of our
Click HERE for the info.
Annual Condition Inspection Checklists
(Submit yours here)
Here's my N104CD
Annual Condition Inspection Checklist
The concepts for my checklist were created from: (thanks to those
who went before for their information)
Elevator Trim Relay
There have been some cases now of the Ray Allen relays for the
Elevator servo sticking. So far they're all with the original
relay, their REL-1, and they've since replaced it with the REL-2. Check out this page
for more info on this situation and some solutions.
Slick Mag SB (replace
carbon brush, cam, and do timing)
Having gone through the Slick mag overhaul, I decided to do a write-up
of my overhaul experience, and also update some of the info I gathered
from other sources because much of it was not very well formatted, and
had some omissions. So here are some links for those facing slick mag
work that you may want to check out:
My Slick Mag
Updated Slick Mag Timing Guide
Text-only Tim's Slick
(no Service info included)
Although this isn't often reported, depending on the interior coverings
you choose for your door, you can make your doors heavy enough that
they sag. For general fabric covering, this won't be an issue,
but for extra thick or padded doors, it may be. Here's a
tip from a fellow builder on the RV-10 Matronics list: (Thanks Ron!)
"After I added some interior to the cabin doors they would constantly
fall down. I found an replacement for the gas strut that Van's supplies
that has 600 newtons force instead of the 500 newtons force with the
van's strut. They were more expensive but it was worth it not to be hit
in the head by the doors. They are Lift-o-Mat 2218LP made by Stabilus.
I found them at JWF Technologies, 6820 Fairfield Business Drive,
Fairfield. OH 45014. www.JWFtechnologies.com"
One thing that people may tend to forget is that our Constant Speed
propellers require maintenence and lube also. Here are some comments
from the Matronics List and a couple of documents to support
them. Most propellers at least from Hartzell will use Aeroshell 6
grease these days. That is what they switched to years ago as
A couple older posts:
"An important thing is… don’t try to purge the old grease with new
grease by continually pumping grease through to the opposite side. This
will invariably go over the back of the bearing and start filling the
hub. Vibration and pesky leaks will follow. I have attached the volume
from the Hartzell standard practices concerning current practice and
some other detail for balance and storage."
Thanks John 40315!
"Most of them come with a decal specifying the grease, usually
Aeroshell 6, you remove two of the 4 zerk fittings and pump gently
until grease appears at the opposite zerk you removed (same side of
hub). Do not force it at all. You do not want grease coming out the
prop blade seals..it will start a leak."
Here are two Hartzell documents that you should refer to, along with
your owners manual for your propeller.
Here is a good article
thanks to John C.
There are now a couple of common issues that are affecting builder's
Filtered Air Box (FAB). One is the filter wearing through the
bottom of the airbox, and the other is that the alternate air door
rivets pull through the fiberglass. For a little more info, see this link
from when I fixed my alternate air door.
Wheel Fairing Mount - RV-10 Long Term
Maintenance Problem (with solution)
If you built your wheel fairings per plans, you are almost certain to
eventually have a maintenance problem on your hands. The U-1008
spacers will eventually eat into the U-1010-L and U-1010-R wheel
fairing mount brackets. If you fix it before it wears into the
brackets, you won't have a big issue on your hands. There are now
a couple different companies who took a look at this issue and have
developed aftermarket parts to prevent the problem, so just as with the
front axle, and the main gear axle extensions, I would highly recommend
just replacing these parts before you fly....or at your next annual if
you are already flying. See my write-up on my Wheel Fairing
There are now places for a builder to actually BUY the parts to
this problem. First to market was PlaneAround.com with the
pictured below. These are a one-piece aluminum spacer that
provides a lot more surface area against the aluminum bracket. It
fits right in and should provide a good long-lasting fix. PlaneAround.com is the producer
of probably the most successful door latch replacement available for
There is also work underway by PlaneInnovations.com which
should be producing something soon as well. They produce a
variety of parts including the axle extensions very similar to the ones
I had helped get made many years ago.
Nosewheel/Tube and Mainwheel/Tube issues Forever!
I wasn't sure if I should post this under Mods or Maintenance...I guess
it depends on what stage you're at in the build.
Either way, definitely go read THIS section,
under Mods....it's worth your time in preventing issues for you in the
Rapco Linings and Discs now
Rapco is now selling linings and discs for the
RV-10 brakes. They're available at http://Vansaircrafttires.com
I did a write-up HERE
after installing them.
within this site may not be considered acceptable, and have come from a
variety of potentially unreliable sources. As with any
do-it-yourself project, building an airplane and doing the maintenance
is an "at your own risk" undertaking. Treat any information you
find on this page and on the web in general with caution and know that
you alone are responsible for the safety of your airplane, and the
maintenance performed. Although the ideas posted here were put
out with the concept of increased safety in mind, there are no
guarantees. (Hey, it's 2006, what's a guy to do)