|Part / Supply||Vendors||Used For...||Notes|
||Duckworks - HIDS
GS Air Strobes
Aerovisions - HIDS
Sartek - HID Bulbs
|Nav Lights, Landing/Taxi Lights,
Panel Lights, Strobes, Wig-Wags.
|No lighting is included. I went with Duckworks HIDS for landing lights. Also look into EL luminescent strips for cockpit lighting. I may not do these due to the small potential for electronic noise, but LED Lighting should be perfect for cockpit lighting. By going with HID Landing Lights, and LED Nav lights, many amps of draw could be saved during night flying...increasing your range should you have an alternator fail. For EL Wiring: http://www.e-lite.com , http://www.elwirecheap.com , http://www.luxurylighting.net|
Ameri-King AK-450 ELT
|Altitude Encoder||ACK||I'm getting the ACK A30.8|
| Seat Belts
|Seat Belts are not
included. Pick your color.
Or other Misc. Suppliers
|You probably want
make sure to get an RG battery. I've use the Concorde RG35AXC in
the past and it is a great battery. I think an Odessy sounds
great for me in my -10.
| Epoxy and
||Wingtips, Canopy, Doors ... all fiberglass parts|| Quantity (2) of
105-A (1qt resin) and (2) 205-A (fast hardner),
(1) 300 Mini Pump Set A, (1) 403 Microfibers, (1) 406 Colloidal Silica, (1) 410 Microlight. My total was ~ $125.
Use 406 for Thickening (white)
Use 410 Brown Power Mix like Bondo for Filler
Get the books from WestSystem, and the stuff from dealers.
Use 206A (slow hardner) when doing the doors. Fast is <15 minute pot life, slow is close to 30min.
** Note: I used 80-85% of one can of 105A+206A for doing just the doors. See my write up on doors for more info.
|Door Bonding / Cabin top
Also called "Milled Fiber"
|Cab-o-Sil is a colloidal Silical epoxy structural filler and thickner. You need to use some when bonding the doors. I don't know much about this brand, but if you use the WestSystem stuff (see above), you will substitue the 406 Colloidal Silica for this. That West System stuff is awesome!|
||For the Cabin Top.
||Plans call for Milled Fiber. See "Cab-o-Sil", and West System Expoy (Above)|
|SmoothPrime||Aircraft Spruce||All Fiberglass Parts - Not required, but recommended.||UVSmoothPrime is a PolyFiber product used in finishing thes mooth surfaces of your fiberglass parts. It's a pinhole filler that gets rolled or sprayed on, and you then sand the area smooth. It rolls on like very thick house paint, and dries very hard in a short time. Don't use it too thick, but using it should help get your parts very smooth in areas that require only light filling.|
||Used on Wingtips
||Per Bob C., you can
for everything if you wish.
Can use epoxy on polyester parts but not the other way around.
|Finishing tips from tailcone kit
|E-Glass Cloth||Aircraft Spruce||Windshield Fairing||E-Glass is needed for
doing the Windshield fairing and is not included with the finishing
kit. It is used with Epoxy, NOT Polyester Resin, to finish the
front of the windshield. *Tip: Some builders tint their epoxy
with charcoal powder, or black toner, to make it black. 7-9 oz.
Per Scott Schmidt: http://scottandranae.smugmug.com/gallery/518426/2/22210526/Large
p/n: 01-06705 (About $30) 4" width
||VANS||For attaching Windows
kits (1 for each window) of 4 oz bottles of Weld-On 10 required to
install windows. About $12 each. Order to arrive with
the finishing kit.
||Your local Auto interior shop.
Perfect Fit - Portland, OR
Your aircraft fabric supplier
|To line the ceiling of
|| Size Required: (Per
80" x what ever the width comes in ( about 63")
See: This Link
Here's a link to my info on headliner
** Note: The best headliners to date are the 2 Colorado -10's...wish I'd have done that. Don't buy 1/4" material, use 1/8" if you're using foam.
|Glareshield Material||Flightline Interiors||Covering the dash panel||You need a little less than a yard of 56" width fabric to cover your glareshield. Abby from Flightline has leathers or what I used was Texsuede 1000 that works excellent for cutting any glare and reflection on your windshield.|
||Tanks and Elevator, V-Stab, and
Aileron and Flap Trailing Edges
|Pitot Mount /
|If you want a nice heated pitot.
||At Aircraft Spruce,
Search for "Homebuilders
Pitot", also AN5812.
I installed the Gretz mount and bought the Gretz GA-1000 Pitot. The mount was great to install. I moved it out 2 or 3 bays, just inside the first bay from the wingtip, in bay #2 from the outside. Much nicer location than standard. (See my write-up)
|Pitot Static Tubing||Pitot System||Plastic 1/4" tubing, and "T"-fittings. Need a "T" for joining static ports.|
|Nicer looking Static Ports||Van's static ports
uses pop-rivets. For nicer looking ports, buy from
Cleaveland. Cheap and Easy.
||VANS||Wherever you can't get good
access for an AN426-3 rivet.
||You'll want a good 50 or 100 of these. An assortment I bought for fixing screwups is a couple of each of these: CR3212-4-2, AK-42H, CR3212-4-3, AACQ-4-3. This gives kind of an assortment of countersunk pop rivets to fit various sized holes that you may oversize by accident.|
||VANS||For when you mess up an AN426AD3
||Buy maybe $3-4 worth of each:
NAS1097AD4-3.5, NAS1097AD4-4, NAS1097AD4-5,
NAS1097AD4-6 Get them before you start your project!
AN3 & AN4
||Spend a few extra bucks and look
ahead in the plans where you'll do attachments, such as ailerons, flaps
and more. Buy some extra hardware for your pre-assembly so your
locknuts and bolts are still in top shape for final assembly.
|Wire for all over the place.
Autopilots, lighting, and more.
||At Wiremasters, ask
for Deb Sullivan. Their prices are by far the best for your
original bulk purchase of wire.
|Used in doing
autopilot servos, Wing root wing wiring disconnects (use AMP CPC
Circular there), and many more places. SteinAir is a good place
for tools for these connectors, as well as B&C.
||The Baggage Door Lock is not
included in the kit. Van's P/N: ES-A-510-2K It's sold
along with the mag switch as a unit. You can probably get it
without a mag switch from Aircraft Spruce. Industrial/Auto supply
places also sell these things, per another RV-10 List member.
Vinyl and Interiors
|Side Walls / Doors / Seats
||No material is included for side walls, headliner, or doors. The fiberglass top and doors require a lot of filling to make them smooth if you just paint them. A covering would be easier, and maybe less noisy. Flightline interiors offers an entire Seat, interior, and headliner package that is the most complete available. Also available is embroidery on the seats and the "Experimental" sign above the door or on the back panels.|
||Front Seat Covers
required. Rear Seat foam and covers not
included. Some are considering Heated Seats.
offers an entire Seat, interior, and headliner package that is the most
complete available. Also available is embroidery on the seats and
the "Experimental" sign above the door or on the back panels.
|Aileron Pushrod Bellows||Flightline Interiors||Seals the aileron pushrod fuselage hole||Some people like to put a pushrod bellows on their control pushrods to keep the cold air out. Abby from Flightline has these for the RV-10.|
||See "Cab-o-Sil", and West System
||For the Cabin Top.
||Plans call for
|Fuel Pump /
to be in FWF kit
engine. New information says they're not.
good to order a couple dozen extras of various sizes for certain
parts. SteinAir also has many, and cheap from what I hear.
Conduit from Van's is great. Steinair has great nylon wire wrap.
to be in FWF Kit. New information says they're not.
| Fuel Tank
||VANS||Left and Right Tanks
||Senders are not included. Use parts: IEF-385B (Left) and IEF-385C (Right). Best to label them left and right as soon as you get them. You do NOT want to install them in the wrong wing. Capacitive not available at time of writing.|
|Nav / LOC / Com /
GPS / DME /
Marker Beacon..... Hey, how 'bout my ADF? :) Great write-up
on the Bob Archer antenna. Another good info spot here: Archer (Wheeler Express page)
||1/4" x 1/8" weather
|Front Seat Vents||The eyeball vents are not included. You do get the NACA air inlets, but not the actual vents, so if you want to be able to shut off the air, buy youself some. Available in Aluminum or plastic. Aluminum is about 8X the price.|
||VANS||I think it's 3/8"
threaded. Will need 3.
Avery Tools - Maybe
|Nice looking way to cover your
rudder cable exits.
I got mine from Aircraft Spruce. 2 for inside the cabin, 2 for outside. May need 2 more when doing the elevator trim cable exits.
||TruTrak Flight Systems
||TruTrak Servos best
purchased from reseller, NOT direct. Cheaper that way. Try http://www.steinair.com, http://www.rvtraining.com, http://www.vansaircraft.com or
others. Elevator servo in tail not needed until fuselage
comes. Roll servo in Left Wing would best be installed before
doing wing bottom skins. I can link to other brands, but TruTrak
is what I chose.
Positioner System (Switch)
|From Niko: The optional Flap positioner switch (ON)-OFF-(ON). Vans grip mounted switch is ON-OFF-(ON). So if one wants gets the optional Flap Positioner system they would need a different grip switch than the one Vans sells.|
|Aileron Trim Kit||VANS
|For Trimming plane for Heavy Wing||The RV-10 is not standard with Aileron or Rudder Trim. There are a couple types availabe, and Jesse Saint has the AeroTrim. Van's sells the Aileron trim for approx. $275.|
|Rudder Trim||DIY Trim
|Trims out rudder at various airspeeds||A highly recommended option is adding Rudder Trim for your RV-10 if you're intending lots of X/C flights.|
|Trim Relays||Matronics Governor
|For controling multiple sticks for trim||If you want to have both sticks control trim, or more than one trim switch, you'll want a relay system. Lots of options available here, including solid-state do-it-yourself for those who are up to it.|
|For stick controls (aileron/elevator trim, AP disconnect, CWS, flaps, lights, radio flip-flop, screen select, ... )||Stick control grips aren't included in the kit. If you want any stick mounted electrical controls, you will need something special. Most builders will want this. Prices range from about $90-170 each.|
||Aircraft Spruce||Floors / Walls
||Aircraft Spruce P/N
42720. You can use 1/4" in some places, and thicker in
others. See: http://freedomflyers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53
Use "Sticky Stuff" to glue it on.
| Alodine Powder
Crest Industrial Chem.
||Builder Choice, but
I love alodined parts. Dorado Kote 1 (DK-1) 5lb pail approx $87.52.
Also Available from: Crest Industrial Chemicals,
| Extended Range Fuel Tanks
|Some builders want
even more range out of their -10's.
||VANS||Testing your Tanks
||There are other ways
to do this, but the kit from Van's is cheap and would be easy.
DON'T test your tanks for at least a few days after completing
them...you'll blow holes in the proseal that hasn't cured!
||Andair - UK
||Included in kit, but some prefer different design. See my site for more information on what some consider a great improvement to the fuel system.|
||VANS||Van's finally came out with THIS Throttle Control. CT 10-3 QUADRANT KIT - $475 at time of writing.|
||Probably want to consider
grabbing a HALON one if possible.
||Too Many To List
C2YR-1BF/F8068D (Blended Airfoil)
|E-Mag (better would
be P-Mag) was not avail. in 6-cyl at time of writing.
|Keyswitch / Baggage Locks||Aircraft Spruce||Baggage Door Locks
or ignition switch
|ACS DOOR AND BAGGAGE
LOCK SETS P/N 11-01600 $26.60
this link for Coss Aviation
See this link for Henkjan van der Zouw's Locks
Some people have also used the standard baggage door locks as above and used them to jam the main mechanism on the door and function as a lock.
The Yard Store
Cleaveland and Avery are the nicest tool places. Others may be
good too. I found the Yard Store by far the best pricing on
things like spare countersink bits, rivet sets of various sizes, dimple
dies, and things like that. BUY EXTRA CLECOS!
||Aircraft Spruce||Builder Preference on internal
||I won't even try to
list them all, but I used Akzo from Aircraft spruce and found it nice,
economical, and tough.
||See Also: Matronics Yeller Pages
|For General Construction
||Air Compressor (I love my VT6271
from Campbell-Hausfeld...BUY DIRECT), Bench Grinder, Drill Press,
Bandsaw, Palm Sander (for scuffing skins with scotchbrite), Die Grinder
(with Cutoff Wheels), Belt Sander, Dremel Tool, Sanding Drums for
Drill, Drill Press, and Dremel Tool. Extra Scotchbrite 1" and 2"
wheels for Die Grinder (Avery)
|Fuel/Oil Hoses / AN Fittings||Summit Racing
and many others
|Any AN fittings and oil/fuel lines||One of the areas that has really improved over the original design is in the fuel selector and fuel line area. The per-plans fuel lines are rigid, hard to run, and much harder to route and fit. As it turns out, High Performance auto and racing supply shops LOVE Aeroquip and other AN fittings, that are of the same 37o style as what we use...and they have a better selection at better prices in most cases.|
|CO Monitor||CO Guardian||You definitely want some
sort of Carbon Monoxide Monitor in your cabin.
Check this link for install info.
|U-1004B Axle Extension Replacements||Various Suppliers||Prevents damage to wheel fairings||Check this link for more info.|
|Overhead Concole||Accuracy Avionics||For ventilation, lighting, and more||One of the things I'd do if I were building again would be to install an overhead console that has a tunnel all the way back to the tailcone. This gives the possibility of overhead ventilation and lighting, and would make a great place to mount overhead accessories.|
||To provide a means of trimming
the yaw out of the completed airplane.
||When you complete your
RV-10, you will most likely not have a plane that is trimmed in
yaw. When you fly on long x/c trips, if you want the plane to fly
level, you will want the plane in trim. Holding your foot on the
pedal is an option, but gets tiring after a while. There are
various methods of rudder trim, including fixed tabs and blocks, which
will take out a lot of the out-of-trim condition but not allow fine
tuning, or, methods of adjustable trim, including spring bias systems
and electric adjustable tabs. See HERE for more info.
ArcticAir Portable AC
|Keeping cool if you live in hot
||While for most builders, the
fast climb rate of the RV-10 will be sufficient to get them away from
the low altitude heat, some will long for an a/c system for their
plane. For the occasional need, I think Arctic Air is an awesome
and GPS Trackers
|To allow others to keep track of
your flight's progress
||Many users are installing or
buying trackers for their families to follow them on flights.
Flightaware isn't constant and consistent, but tracks you under radar
coverage during IFR flight. APRS requires an easy-to-obtain HAM
radio licence, but gives awesome tracking for no subscription
fee. Spot messenger gives 10min updates with wide coverage areas
via satellite, but requires an approx. $150/yr service charge, and has
no external antenna. Check this link for
||To provide in-flight video
recordings of flights
||Some people choose to install
things like vertical stabilizer fairing mounted video cameras to tape
their flights. Plan ahead if you want to do something like this,
or running wires will be complicated later.
||To provide entertainment for
|Many builders are installing
things like small LCD displays and systems for watching movies, both
portable and fixed. I find that the Creative Zen Vision 60GB
system is a great starting point for storing movies (if you plan to
watch them only while under 10,000') and feed this into a portable
video splitter that feeds two portable seatback screens. There
are many methods of doing this, but plan ahead if you do any built-in
||The RV-10 cruises well between
10k and 15k feet, but you need Oxygen
||There are too many systems to
mention, but notables are Mountain High's built-in electronic system
for those who need O2 most of their flights, to small portables for
only occasional use. I use the PreciseFlight portable but use
their more comfortable cannulas that come with their demand conservers
that are non-electrical. Do your research, but plan ahead if you
want a built-in system. More
||CO Guardian and others
||To provide CO safety
||You definitely want some sort of
CO monitoring and alerting. Some systems even interface with your
||Because doing it per-plans may
come with a safety penalty
||The standard Van's axle
extensions that hold the wheel fairings outboard side are a commonly
broken piece of equipmetn. The design stinks, plain and
simple. Especially if you fly off grass at all, invest in a pair
of extensions before you either wreck your fairings, or even your
More info HERE.
BlueSky from ATP
|There's a lot of window in the
RV-10, and you'll want some shade
||There are 2 primary visor
options....Rosen and BlueSky. The Rosens are about twice the
price, weigh more, and take a little larger and more numerous mounting
holes. The Blue Sky are lighter, more easily moved, take only a
very small single mounting hole, and are much cheaper. But,
explore them both. HERE
is more info.
||Helps a lot with overhead vents
and lighting options, and wires
||One thing I'd do, if I were
doing it all over again, is add an overhead console. Some people
roll their own, and some buy an aftermarket one, but definitely if you
want overhead ventilation, lighting, or entertainment wiring, look into
them before you mount your cabin top...as you'll want to do this job
while the cabin top is upside down. More obsolete info HERE.
||To provide easier oil changes
||Most will install an oil quick
drain. Nope, they don't usually come with your engine. More
on one option.
||If you often park on slopes
||Many builders could care less,
but if you frequent areas where you park on slopes, you may want
one. HERE is some
info on an install of one.