Wing Tips

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On page 16-2, the aft wing-walk doubler has a nutplate holes to drill.  Read ahead for the nutplate riveting and you will see that the forward most hole in the aft wing-walk doubler is correct per plans.  I accidently drilled mine for a standard center-threaded nutplate, whereas this gets the nutplate with the threads on the end, with 2 rivets side by side.

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See also this page for wing cradle pictures.
Strange things and complications this section:  Unless I measured wrong 5 or 6 times,  the notches that you have to cut in the ribs to go around the thick spar doubler
steps are not called out to be tall enough slots.  Also, LP4-3's seem to be a little on the short side to attach the leading edge ribs to the spar on the inboard
3 ribs that get LP4-3's.

Tip Time:  Clamping the inboard end of the spar to the bench worked great to support the wing for riveting the leading edge.  (use 2 clamps) My first wing, I clamped it down with the top skin down, and shot all rivets.  This took far more time than the 2nd wing.  The 2nd wing I clamped leading edge down, and shot the top side rivets, but squeezed the bottom skin rivets.  That went EXTREMELY fast.  Make sure you're equipped with a variety of offset, and angled rivet sets of various lengths for your gun for 1/8" universal rivets.

So today I answered a nagging question related to drilling the J-stiffners done in the wing spar step of the wing....

Very early into the wing spar step, you lay the J-stiffners inside of the wing spar, and clamp them in place, leaving something like  1/16" above the upped edge of the spar, and you overlap the stiffners and then match drill them to the spar.   It gets more confusing when you're drilling one side of them, and it has a note of
"DO NOT DRILL IN THESE AREAS" or something to that effect.  I studied the drawings VERY carefully, trying to figure out exactly which holes
don't get drilled...worried about making a mistake that would hurt down the road.

Here's the deal:

The spar is just your drill-guide so that you can drill the j-stiffners and get the proper hole spacings in them for future use. The small edge sticking above the spar is just so that the holes fall on the centerline of the J-Stiffners.  Nothing too tricky about that...later the stiffners just drop right in place with the wing skin holes.  But, the spots that it warns you not to drill are only there for one don't match drill where the wing access plates go, because the access-plate holes have no relation to the regularly spaced holes that the skin will have later.  If you drilled them,  it's probably not going to be a big deal, but when match drilling them to the spar, just try not to drill in that area....and as far as where to stop match drilling, as long as you're drilling holes matched with that proper spacing that the bottom skin holes has, you're ok.  So, just don't match drill any holes that are related to the nutplates in those areas, and you should be fine.

Big Tip:  When you're getting to the Aileron/Flap step, make sure you've already decided on all of the wiring that you're going to put into your wing, and try to have it all on it's way.  Once you finish the Aileron Actuation, you're going to be looking for things to do, and you'll run out unless your wiring is ready.

Wing Stand
Larry Rosen #356 took the design that I robbed from someone else that I hacked up and slightly modified, and he re-hacked it, and made it even better.  He has a full write-up here if you want dimensions.  I gave him rough specs, and he built it and when his QB wings arrived, they fit right in.  Good going Larry!

Don't Deburr That Hole!

When doing the rear spar on the wings, page 15-2 where you work with the aileron brackets:
Don't deburr the W-1013A  bracket where the bearing goes, because it may end up oversized and the bearing needs to be a pressed fit!
Thanks Jim, 40384!

Locking Fuel Caps
Jim Hein # 40384 says:  I just finished fitting my Deluxe locking fuel caps from Van's into my tank, and have found an excellent way to shape it so the contour will fit more closely to the skin.

As you may know, the deluxee cap flange has an excessive contour, that will result in a skin "burble" if installed as-is. What you need to do is take out the high spot and flatten it so it is closer to the standard cap's flange.   The trick? Use a belt sander and sand the flange down until it is flat across the opening of the flange. Then, take a scotchbrite wheel to round the edge where the sanded part ends on each side. This still leaves a small bit of gap at the top and botton of the flange, but there is no visible skin deformation.

Here is a PHOTO to show it.

Sealing the tooling holes on the end ribs of the fuel tanks

Jim -  I've already found AN470AD6 rivets to fit the tooling holes (fit perfectly!)