This clip comes from: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/wing/20040906/index.html
16-2, the aft wing-walk doubler
has a nutplate holes to drill. Read ahead for the nutplate
riveting and you will see
that the forward most hole in the aft wing-walk doubler is correct per
accidently drilled mine for a standard center-threaded nutplate,
whereas this gets the
nutplate with the threads on the end, with 2 rivets side by side.
This clip comes from: http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/wing/20041019/index.html
See also this page for wing cradle pictures.
Strange things and complications this
section: Unless I measured wrong 5 or 6 times, the
that you have to cut in
the ribs to go around the thick spar doubler
steps are not called out to be tall
enough slots. Also, LP4-3's seem to be a little on the short
the leading edge ribs to the spar on the inboard
3 ribs that get LP4-3's.
inboard end of the spar to the bench
worked great to support the wing for riveting the leading
(use 2 clamps) My first wing, I clamped it down with the top skin down,
and shot all
rivets. This took far more time than the 2nd wing.
wing I clamped
leading edge down, and shot the top side rivets, but squeezed the
rivets. That went EXTREMELY fast. Make sure you're
with a variety of offset, and angled rivet sets of various lengths for
your gun for 1/8"
So today I answered a nagging question related to drilling the J-stiffners done in
spar step of the wing....
Very early into the wing spar step, you lay the J-stiffners inside of
the wing spar, and clamp them in place, leaving something
1/16" above the upped edge of the spar, and you overlap the stiffners
and then match drill them to the spar. It gets more
confusing when you're drilling one side of them, and it has a note of
"DO NOT DRILL IN THESE AREAS" or something to that effect. I
studied the drawings VERY carefully, trying to figure out exactly which
don't get drilled...worried about making a mistake that would hurt down
Here's the deal:
The spar is just your drill-guide so that you can drill the j-stiffners
and get the proper hole spacings in them for future use. The small edge
sticking above the spar is just so that the holes fall on the
centerline of the J-Stiffners. Nothing too tricky about
that...later the stiffners just drop right in place with the wing skin
holes. But, the spots that it warns you not to drill are only
there for one reason....you don't match drill where the wing access
plates go, because the access-plate holes have no relation to the
regularly spaced holes that the skin will have later. If you
drilled them, it's probably not going to be a big deal, but
match drilling them to the spar, just try not to drill in that
area....and as far as where to stop match drilling, as long as you're
drilling holes matched with that proper spacing that the bottom skin
holes has, you're ok. So, just don't match drill any holes
are related to the nutplates in those areas, and you should be fine.
Tip: When you're getting to the Aileron/Flap
sure you've already decided on all of the wiring that you're going to
put into your wing, and try to have it all on it's way. Once
finish the Aileron Actuation, you're going to be looking for things to
do, and you'll run out unless your wiring is ready.
Larry Rosen #356 took the design that I robbed from someone else that I
hacked up and slightly modified, and he re-hacked it, and made it even
better. He has a full write-up here if you want dimensions.
I gave him rough specs, and he built it and when his QB wings
arrived, they fit right in. Good going Larry!
Don't Deburr That Hole!
When doing the rear spar on the wings, page 15-2 where you work with
the aileron brackets:
Don't deburr the W-1013A bracket where the bearing goes,
it may end up oversized and the bearing needs to be a pressed fit!
Thanks Jim, 40384!
Locking Fuel Caps
Jim Hein # 40384 says: I just finished fitting my Deluxe locking fuel caps from Van's into
my tank, and have found an excellent way to shape it so the contour will
fit more closely to the skin.
As you may know, the deluxee cap flange has an excessive contour,
that will result in a skin "burble" if installed as-is. What you need to
do is take out the high spot and flatten it so it is closer to the
standard cap's flange.
The trick? Use a belt sander and sand the flange down until it is
flat across the opening of the flange. Then, take a scotchbrite wheel to
round the edge where the sanded part ends on each side. This still
leaves a small bit of gap at the top and botton of the flange, but there
is no visible skin deformation.
Here is a PHOTO to show it.
Sealing the tooling holes on the end ribs of the fuel tanks
Jim - I've already found AN470AD6 rivets to fit
the tooling holes (fit perfectly!)