Recent Posting gleaned from
So far I have found a couple of issues with the RV-10 fuselage kit that
you should be aware of.
25-3 Step 6: Calls for a 7.9mm drill (.311") Van's says a 5/16" bit is
OK (A .311 reamer would be perfect...not hard to find)
25-6 Calls for a F-1004M (plastic wear pad) It is not in the inventory.
I called Van's and they told me that the part did not exist in their
databast even. The other night we found bag 1398 which is no where on
the inventory list and in it was this part plus the scat tube brackets
that we could not find anywhere.
25-8 Step 5: Dimple the nutplate attach holes and add a step to rivet
them to the spar.
27-3: Remember that the scat tube bracket is in bag 1398
27-5: The drawing only shows one nutplate on the angled bracket but
there are holes for two (one on each side) All the other pictures show
this with two as well.
27-6: Figure#2 calls for AN3-3A. Van's says to use 4A's and add a
washer if you need too. They don't even ship the kit with a 3A.
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Well, I found a pretty confusing section with the plans.
Some of the measurements on the F-1013 longerons are wrong on Page
29-2. The plans say to start the bend at 30 9/32" from the forward edge
and stop the end of curve is at 92 3/16. Well the length of the whole
jig is about 58 3/4". So if you add 30 9/32" + 58 3/4" it is definately
shorter than 92 3/16". (It is 89 1/32"). So right there you know
something is wrong. Now I am going to send this info to Van's and see
what he says but this is what I was able to figure out. From fitting
the skins and all the parts to the plane it appears that the 30 9/32"
is the right dimesion for where the jig starts. So you can start making
the bend here. Once the bend is complete it asks you to drill the #40
holes from the jig. Now the F-1015C-R and L that the peice mates to has
36 holes and the jig only has 35 holes. What you have to remember is
when you assemble these parts on page 29-7 is that the first hole in
the F-1013-R and L will actually be aligned with the second hole from
the front on the F-1015C-R and L. So once this is all clecoed together
you will have to drill the front hole (the 36th hole). Now this took me
forever to figure out why this wasn't fitting. If this is not right, I
will post Van's comments ASAP. But I wanted to get this out because I
know what a headache it can be when things are not working out as
Here is a picture showing how the jig holes all line up perfectly if
you align the front hole in the jig with the second hole in the
F-1015C-R and L. If you align the front hole in the jig with the front
hole in the F-1015C-R adn L they will be off by as much as half a hole
in the middle. I hope this makes some sense.
Other areas to watch for:
Page 29-13: There is no step for drilling #40 the F-1042-R and L and
the side skins. I know they must be done because they get countersunk
in a few steps.
Page 31-2: Apparently, Step 3 has the wrong dimensions and it will end
up too short. (I will call Van's and post the correct dimesions when I
The 89 1/32" dimension is the end of the curve, the 92 3/16" dimension
is the aft twist mark. All the dimensions are correct. The jig is
supposed to skip the first hole in the F-1015C. As you say the holes
line up perfectly.
On page 29-13, we will add a note to drill the holes common to the
bulkhead. This will go into step 7.
On the issue of step 3, page 31-2, we double checked the dimensions and
if anything they are slightly generous. The dimensions are correct as
I have e-mailed Bruce the following. Now if your plans are like mine
you don't have a 89 1/32".
"I must not have the latest revision. On my plans
page 29-2 has five dimensions. 5”, 30 9/32”, 67 11/16”, 92 3/16” for
the left and 113 ½” for the right.
It also says that end of curve is at 67 11/16” which apparently is not
right. I do not have a 89 1/32” dimension. That is what I measured it
to be approximately.
I am now assembling the side skins and I’m finding out that we should
have dimpled the F-1015A-L and R. It is very difficult to now. Since
the F-1018L and R are dimpled on page 26-5 step 6 I assume the
F-1015A-L and R should be done here as well. And the F-1015B-L and R
that is behind the F-1015A-L should be done.
Again I am assuming that this should have been done sooner since all
the #40 holes use 426 rivets. Is this correct?
Page 29-14 Step #9: says to machine countersink the F-1013 that is
common to the F-1069. It appears that the holes that are common to the
F-1070 should also be countersunk too. I do not see any step that
counter sinks these later. "
I talked to Van's and he did say to machine coutersink all the holes in
the F-1013 L and R.
Now for all of you who who haven't already riveted on the F-1015A- L
and R. I would drill and dimple all the #40 holes except the holes that
are behind the F-1004K-L and R. These holes do not get dimpled in the
later steps and like I said, I think it should have been done on page
26-5 step 6 when the F-1018-L and R are drilled and dimpled. You will
also want to drill and dimple the bottom six #40 holes on the F-1015C-L
and R which coorespond to the F-1015A-L and R.
Per Bob Condrey, RE: Rolling the fuselage
First the problem: The picture on page 29-11 illustrates how to
the forward fuselage
skins. It involves clamping a piece of
wood to a workbench, clamping a couple of "construction
angles" to the skin and then rolling the skin. Finally, while holding the
in a "rolled state" you give a sharp whack with a rubber
a couple of hints:
1) The angles are shown held to the
vice grips (the kind that form a "C"). There really isn't
much of the angle to grab onto. It turns out to be MUCH easier if you
the kind without the "pads". C clamps and other methods
of holding the angles to the skin are difficult at best. You either don't
enough surface to clamp or there won't be clearance while
The exception is at the small end of the "cone" - there is
a small C clamp there holding the ends of the construction angles together.
Use actual C clamps to hold the skin and wood
form down to the workbench. I was originally using the "quick
grip" type of sliding clamps. You get a lot more clamping force
clamps. I spent a long time last night working on the
first forward skin and the result was poor. Making the above two
allowed me to do the other side in only about 15-20 minutes! I
then reclamped the first skin and "touched it up".
In the final analysis the picture on 29-11 is
very good. If you do it EXACTLY like it shows without
tool substitutions it will turn out great. Using the vice grips without the pads
makes it even easier!
yourself a favor - if you don't have the right
clamps, go get them
Mark Cooper: Here's a tip on looking at the plans carefully for some
holes to dimple
Step 26-5 of putting the Mid Fuse Ribs and bulkheads together. Step 6
on that page tells you to dimple the exterior #40 holes in the web of
the outboard seat ribs in the F-1018-L (and -R). However, there is a
piece just in front of that same bulkhead and with the same exterior
contour - the F-1015A-L (and -R). The web on these two pieces should be
dimpled as well.
For a good fuselage holder idea,