Work-Area Tips and Workspace Requirements

I've tried to gather some measurements for the new and prospective builders, so they know what to plan for workspace requirements.  Randy #006
was nice enough to measure his fuse for me, so we have a good idea of  the space these things will take up as you're building.

All dimensions are MAX including anything sticking out.  An attempt was made to measure the widest measurement you'd need to fit these things
in an area.

108"L x 36"W x 37"H

152"L x 57"W x 9.5"H
The wings include the length and width with the flaps attached.  Reduce by about 9"W and 2"L if you remove the flap.  The flap attach brackets
will still stick out though.

Horizontal Stab
134"L x 20.5"W x 4"H

The Elevator, Vertical Stab, and Rudder are all small enough to fit through any door that a person can.

  Firewall to tip of tailcone including 2 cabin heat vents is approx. 214"
  Firewall to Tailcone 115"
  Width 57" from ends of wing center section
  Height 52"
  Add about 18" for engine mount.

By the time you join your tailcone to your fuselage, you'll need about 18.5' in length for work area.   Start adding the engine and you'll  need another 3 or 4 feet.

Rolling Height
Russ Daves was nice enough to send me the ground to belly height of the RV-10 between the gear.   27 inches from the ground to the belly.  This is measured at about the mid point of the doors...just behind where the actual tires are. This allowed me to calculate what the top of the canopy height would be, once the gear was installed.....which I needed because my garage door is only 78" tall at the door lip when open.
The bad news is that the RV-10 stands a full 80" tall on gear, empty, with no engine mounted.    But, there's also good news....
I was able to pop the door opener (pull the red rope) which allowed me to hand-push the door up further on it's rails, causing the door to open a little larger.   I now have about 80.5" at the opening, and 79.5" under one of the metal cross supports on the door.   I am guessing that by leaving some air out of the tires, adding some weight, perhaps adding the engine, that maybe I'll get enough space back to get in and out without major concerns.  If necessary, I might be able to replace the door with one that doesn't have the big reinforcement sticking out....just temporarily, then toos the cheap door after the project is done.

Getting it Out the Door
Per Bob Condrey, the measured distance from center to center on the TOP of the tires, the distance is 89'.   Edge-to-edge width of the tires is 94".  This should help you figure out if you can fit it out the door from a width perspective.  I would not permanently install the axle extensions for the wheel fairings until you are at the airport for final assembly, as not only will they be vulnerable to breakage, or hurting yourself on, but they'll make it harder to fit out the door or on a trailer too.  Look above for info on height.
I do seem to remember that 94" was a width measurement I used when setting up my ramps to get the plane on the trailer for painting and to take to the airport.  I had thought that was center-to-center width, by with my late-30's alzheimer's starting in, I think it must have been the outside, just like Bob's.  You will probably want a full 8' wide trailer for hauling it.  I used a 10' long by 108" wide snowmobile trailer which worked great.

Hangaring It
I'm trying to gather distances required for T-Hangaring.
From Eric, it looks like from the wing trailing edge to the tail is about 13', so that gives you the distance
absolutely requred for the "T"'s stem.  I know a 40' door works perfectly, too.

Crating and Shipping Info: (This may not be 100% current)
Here's a sheet from Van's - Click this link

Tailcone Kit
Box 1:       225 lbs.      113"x46"x11"
Box 2:         45 lbs       136"x6"x3"

Wing Kit
Box 1:        233 lbs.     104" L x 32" W x 10" H
Box 2:        244 lbs.     169" L x 10" W x 11" H

QB Fuse 1:    740lbs    4'W x 8'L x 42"H
QB Fuse 2:     260lbs    5'W x 8'L x 5'H

Finishing kit:    500lbs     4'W x 8'L x 2'H

Fuselage Holder

Rick Sked didn't like the idea of using cheesy pallets to hold his fuselage, so he build this:  (See below for his comments)

Rick's Fuselage Holder  Ricks Fuselage Holder

Here are a few photos of my version of the pallets that others may find helpful. Pallets just didn't trip mt trigger so I picked up twp wooden sawhorses, 2ea 8' 2 x 4's and 4 swivel casters at the Home Depot. Cut the 2 x 4's in half, cut the legs off the horses and screwed this all together. It is just the right height, you can wheel it around and it was less than $40.

Rick Sked - 40185 - Las Vegas