Vertical Stabilizer Tips

Here's a critical tip regarding the nose ribs on the Vertical Stab:

When trying to fit the nose ribs into the skin, DO NOT force the nose ribs in.  Yes, they don't fit because the nose ribs (especially the middle one) are TOO LONG.  You WILL cause an outward dent in the skin if you force it.  A very large number of RV-10
builders have suffered this fate.  Van's does not warn you in the plans about this in the vertical stab section, but they do in the Horizontal Stab section, so jump ahead and read that if you can.  The way to prevent this is,  you will need to remove some material from the tip of the nose ribs.  Maybe 1/8" or more.  Also, make sure you are rounding the corners on that nose rib.  You can remove quite a bit of metal, but just make sure you maintain enough material on the tabs so that you can have proper edge clearance to the rivet holes.
I only wish I would have known this sooner, and many other builders feel the same.  Every plane has it's signature feature...too bad the RV-10's signature is a big dent coming out of it's Vertical stab.

Recent Posting:
Hi all, I've just about got the VS wrapped up, but there is one rivet I can't figure out how to get. I'm doing the 470's that rivet the spar flange to the spar cap below the skin, and it's the one that sits right up against the lower half of the bottom hinge bracket. My squeezer yoke can't get on the rivet because of the hinge bracket (guaranteed to cleat the rivet),  and the Avery kit didn't include a 3/32 set for trying to shoot it.  I've thought about grinding the yoke down, ordering a thin-nose/no-hole,  or a 3/32 set, but am wondering if I'm missing something obvious.  How did you guys get it?

Answer 1: I shot mine with a flush set.  My little brazier head rivets out the round head, but they set just fine.  Foudn the idea in an old Lockheed handbook.

Answer 2: (My choice)  I ordered a 3/32" set from the Yard Store for $5.  A nice cheap solution instead of grinding an expensive yoke.