| I complied with the New Service Bulletin SB 08-6-1 today. Fortunately I don't have the empannage attached (paint prep) so there |
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| was less disassembly to perform. Only needd to remove the elevator trim servo tray, and then remove all of the rivets from the |
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| upper deck. I used a method suggested by Ed Hayden. !st center drill #40 the rivet to just below the surface of the material |
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| (skin/bulkhead), then #30 drill the rivet head to that same depth. 90% of the time the rivet heads comes off with this operation. |
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| then used the #40 rivet punch to punch out the rivet. most of the rivets along the longerons came out easily this way, and so I |
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| avoided elongating any rivet holes. some of the rivets (i.e. thos that were #8's and went across the cross member, took a little |
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| more work to get out. I didn't have a good 'close-in' angle drill, but I bought a 'flex' shaft drill extension from Sears and a 3/32 & |
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| 1/8" bit, and was able to use that for removing the bulkhead rivets and match drilling the doublers. In riveting on the doublers and |
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| re riveting the upper deck, I was able to use the pneumatic squeezer for all of the rivets. (some required the 4" no-nose yoke). |
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| other than removing the rivets, this was a pretty straight forward change. It took a while longer because its 112 today and that |
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| slows me down just a tad! |
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