| I began by removing the piano hinges on the lower portion of the firewall, Spoke with a builder who had his break on his RV-6 |
|
| and it recalled stories I read of others who have had the same outcome. So.... I drilled them off and fabed some .062 and match |
|
| drilled it. On the right side, I need all of the room I can get, I replaced the .020 shim w/ .040 if it moves the fiberglass too much, it |
|
| will be easier to fair that than the other way around. I'm going to install 3 countersunk #8 nutplates on each 'lip' I'll use ss screws |
|
| with ss countersunk washers to keep everything tight. Then on to fitting.... I had to lower cowl on and off the fuse another 20-25 |
|
| times today. Forcing my self to go slow and try and think through each situation before sanding. Also try an limit the number of |
|
| sanding/changes per fit cycle as sometimes a little material taken off in one place will make a WHOLE LOT of difference in |
|
| another. The GOOD news is that it looks like the 'skimpy' right side is going to work out. The low spot is now just flush with the |
|
| upper cowl. I've still got some fitting to do at the front around the spinner, the top and bottom fit flush with the spacers that I |
|
| taped to the backplate, but the lower cowl spinner ring seems to have a slight tilt aft when viewed from the side. Not sure how |
|
| this could be rectified, as the bottom rear of the cowls are now flush with the fuse and the only way to get the front spinner ring |
|
| flush would be to raise rear of the cowl while keeping front stationary. No way to do that. |
|
