| I picked up a tip from Brian Sutherland's install regarding fitting these doors and it seems to work well so I'm relaying it. 1st when |
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| you have the doors joined and clecoed to the fuse, work on getting the top of the door to fit flush with the cabin top and aprox 6-8 |
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| inches around each corner. Once you are to this point go ahead and install the hinges per the plans and hard mount the door to |
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| the cabin. Then cut off the tabs that you used to cleco the doors in place temporarily, and now you're free to work your way down |
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| the door frame sanding and removing material both on the cabin frame itself and also on the door edges. one of the problmes in |
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| trying to get a really close fit (ie no gap ) is that the cabin door frame edges are rounded quite a bit so as soon as you get the |
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| edge of the door sanded back far enough to clear the cabin frame you instantly find you have a 'gap' that's bigger than I would |
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| have liked. Similarly the bottom door sill on the cabin that attaches to the fuse comes out to the edge/flush with the fuse skins. |
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| requiring you to trim the bottom of the doors up quite some distance in order to get them to sit 'inside' the door frame. this leaves |
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| an unsightly gap below the door.The solution is after getting the doors fit all around the perimeter, and after final mounting the |
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| cabin top, to put some packaging tape on the door edges and then mix up some flox and squeege it into the gap, and then sand |
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| it flush, it will yield a perfect 'no gap' seam, and you can hand sand/finish to whatever distance you prefer. I can see that between |
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| the doors and the overhead (next week) I'm going to be swimming in fiberglass dust for some time --- ughhhh!!!!! |
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