Rudder Pedal Blocks
Added 5/3/2009 -
3/7/2011 - Major Update 6/25/2017
In the RV-10, the builder has the choice on where to mount
rudder pedals. Being over 6'1", I decided I wanted mine in
forward position. I have found this to be great for me in
airplane. You can see the sort 2" or so link in the rudder
cable on the Left side of the photo below. If you mount
pedals aft, you just don't use that link. I like the
Initially this arrangement was 100% perfect for me.
always been perfectly satisfied with it. Actually, for
still am perfectly happy. But recently things have changed
slightly. Andrea has taken up flying lessons, and I like
anyone an opportunity to get their hands and feet on the
try things out. Well, unfortunately she's slightly shorter
am...enough so that she couldn't reach the rudder pedals with
positioned where they were. In fact, I don't know if she'd
them if they were positioned in the aft location either.
was time to investigate rudder pedal blocks of some sort...or
big giant shoes from the 60's.
- A) it keeps the CG more forward in the plane, and
you've read my site elsewhere, you know that I think the
RV-10 is NOT
noseheavy in a way that would make you want to
intentionally move the
CG aft in most installs.
- B) It keeps me a little closer to the panel with my
adjusted where I reach the pedals. The panel reach
comfortable, but I don't want to be further back than
- C) It also gives my rear seat passengers just that
bit more legroom because my seat is a couple inches
than it otherwise would be.
I thought about it hard for a while, and went through many
of aluminum machined things in my head. Yes, there are
make it prettier. But no, for right now, I am not going to
that much time and effort into this. In the end, I found a
workable solution that will allow us to go forward for a while.
A basic description is this: The blocks are 2 pieces of
glued together solid, and then cut down to 4.25" wide by about
long. A couple inches from the bottom side on the back, I
routed a slight 1/4" deep concave line across them. This
fits over the bottom bar on the pedals, otherwise the block
sit flat on the pedal and would pinch at that pivot point.
keeps the blocks completely attached to the pedals, and NOT the
surrounding the pedals. At the bottom of the face of the
is a piece of trim moulding, to raise out the pedal on those
couple of inches. If you push on that area, the pedal
assisted to retract the brakes, so you get rudder action
also helped lower the pedals to the floor for her stubby little
You probably remember that the standard pedals have a series of
lightning holes in them. That is how the bolts
secure. On 2
of the holes I have long carriage bolts going through the
out the back side of the pedals. On the back side of the
are 2 large flat washers, with a felt anti-skid chair leg pad
them, to keep from scratching the pedal. This holds them
against the pedals themseles. To prevent the blocks from
and moving around, potentially jamming up something, I have
holes in the back side of the blocks with a 3/4" bit, and glued
stubs of 3/4" dowels that stick out and through the other
holes on the aluminum pedal. This means it can't slide
up/down/left/right and jam into anything else. The dowels
important part...you do NOT want to worry about jammed pedals or
brakes. With these it's just plain not gonna happen.
In the end, they functions fine and have been in use for coming
up on a
year now with no issues. I had intended to make them
and remake them out of Aluminum or maybe remake them real nice
wood some day, but these things are functioning fine and so
really wasn't any need to improve them for us. I just
this weekend and drilled the lightening holes in the back of
half only), so that I could reduce the weight a little.
weigh something near 2.5lbs for the pair....not
significant. I did not drill out the bottom part
below the bar on the rudder pedals, for this reason: The
hanging down low in that position will tend to DE-activate the
brakes. It isn't anything really necessary, but I figured
should do anything I could to make sure that the blocks didn't
tendency to apply the brakes (they didn't before), but that by
the bottom heavier, it would assist in brake deactivation.
these aren't the prettiest things out there, but they are plenty
So if you are in a bind for the rare but there "vertically
pilot friend, this may be a solution you could try.
6/25/2017 Update: If you've
gotten this far, just jump ahead now to THIS
PAGE on My RV-14 site for some better rudder pedal
info. The rest of this page is now irrelevant.
Pedal blocks - Front View - with
Pedal blocks - Side View - You
the wood dowels and washers
Pedal blocks - Back View View -
the wooden dowels, and the holes to lighten the blocks
This is a pre-paint view
Here is a pair by Alan, another
guy...his are made out of 1/4" aluminum