March 23-24, 2004
3/23/04 I worked on the Horizontal Stabilizer spar H-bar doubler
HS-1007, and the 2 spar caps.
Lots of holes to drill and deburr. More tedious work. This
time I didn't screw up on the spar caps
at all, as opposed to my V.Stab ones. They actually had a note on
the instructions that was
really nice, and should have been on the previous section, warning to
clamp the cap tightly to
not leave a gap. Use plenty of clecos as you go. I
also got to drill all the holes in my attach
brackets and they look like they'll work great. I was worried
because my saw took a bite out
of one edge of one bracket, so it's about 1/8 or more narrower than it
should have been, all on
one side, but there's plenty of metal there to hold onto, now that I
see how it's used. Hard to
believe some of these little aluminum things can help hold the plane
Here's the drilled and deburred spar.
3/24/04 I worked on the rudder, now that the ProSeal has cured.
First, use a #40 drill in your fingers
to clean out the proseal, then use a deburring tool in your fingers to
get rid of the ProSeal from the
dimples. That took a long time....maybe 45 minutes or
so. Then, on to riveting in the forward
rudder spar and riveting the skin down. That went great.
The pop rivets were no problem, and even
the bucked and hammered rivets went smooth. BIG tip....if you're
trying to do this without a
pneumatic squeezer and the 4" long-nose thin-nose yoke, you're just
begging to waste your time.
That squeezer is the best thing I bought for this job. I'd trade
my left nut for a squeezer if
I didn't have one. I was able to use the long-nosed
squeezer to squeeze every rivet South of the
My rudder, with the clecos out of the trailing edge.
Looking at these next 2 pictures closely, maybe some of you can tell me
how good your trailing
edges look. Mine have little ripples where the rolled edge got a
bump in it from doing the
dimpling of the holes. It's pretty slight, and I don't care much,
but just wondering if that's
how yours looks too.
Putting in the spar's pop-rivets.
The skin is all riveted on..
After this, I put in a little time on 3/24 alodining the H-bar spar
doubler and the spar caps. I figure
that I'll paint those with Akzo tomorrow, but I'll probably do the
Mar-Hyde + Akzo combo to
the other spar again. I just don't feel like pouring out a ton of
Alodine into the big spar wooden box.
Maybe I'll change my mind later, but right now I think that's too much
work for too little return.
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